Grouse is a type of game bird that is hunted and eaten in many parts of the world. The French word for grouse is “tétras”. This refers to several species of grouse that are native to France and other parts of Europe.
What types of grouse live in France?
There are three main species of grouse that inhabit the mountains, forests, and moors of France:
- Black grouse or “tétras lyre” (Tetrao tetrix)
- Capercaillie or “grand tétras” (Tetrao urogallus)
- Hazel grouse or “tétras bonasia” (Bonasa bonasia)
Of these, the black grouse is the most widespread and commonly hunted species in France. The capercaillie is the largest, while the hazel grouse is the smallest.
What do grouse eat?
Grouse are omnivorous birds that feed on a variety of plant matter and small invertebrates. Their diets can include:
- Buds, catkins, leaves, and shoots of trees and shrubs
- Seeds and berries of trees and shrubs
- Flower heads and herbaceous plants
- Insects
- Snails and slugs
In autumn and winter, the diet of grouse shifts more towards woody plant material as other foods become scarce. Hazel grouse in particular rely heavily on hazel nuts and catkins during winter.
When is grouse hunting season in France?
Grouse hunting is a popular tradition in many parts of France. The hunting seasons for each species are:
- Black grouse: mid-September to mid-November
- Capercaillie: mid-September to mid-November
- Hazel grouse: mid-September to late December
However, exact opening and closing dates can vary between regions. There are also often restrictions on the number of birds that can be harvested each day or over the course of the season.
How are grouse hunted in France?
Grouse are hunted using a number of techniques in France:
- Walking/stalking – Hunters walk through areas of grouse habitat hoping to flush birds out to be shot at.
- Pointing dogs – Dogs specially bred to point and indicate where grouse are hiding in vegetation.
- Shooting – Grouse are shot using shotguns once located by hunters or dogs.
- Falconry – Falcons or hawks are used to catch grouse in mid-air.
Both black grouse and capercaillie are known to congregate in openings called “leks” during breeding season. These can allow for easier shooting. Hazel grouse are more solitary and reclusive.
How are grouse prepared and eaten in French cuisine?
Grouse have long been part of traditional French cuisine. Some common ways they are prepared and served include:
- Roasted – Roasted whole, often basted with butter or duck fat during roasting.
- Grilled – Breasts or legs grilled over a fire or charcoal.
- Braised – Slow cooked in wine or broth as a braise or stew.
- In sauce – Served in rich wine sauces made with mushrooms, shallots, etc.
- Pâté – Minced grouse meat baked in a pastry crust or terrine.
- Salmis – Grouse roasted then chopped up and simmered in wine sauce.
Grouse is often described as having a delicate, gamey flavor. It can be served with fruit sauces or chutneys to balance the gaminess. The meat stands up well to strong flavors like juniper berries, bay leaf, pepper, and vinegar.
What wines pair well with grouse?
Some classic French wines that complement the flavor of grouse include:
- Pinot Noir – The light earthiness and red fruit notes balance the rich meat.
- Beaujolais – Fruity, dry Beaujolais brings out the delicate notes.
- Burgundy – The funkiness of a Burgundy red interacts nicely with gaminess.
- Bordeaux – The tannins and dark fruit of Bordeaux is a bold match.
- Chardonnay – A buttery white Burgundy or oaked Chardonnay.
Grouse has enough flavor on its own that it generally doesn’t need an overly bold, heavy wine. Lighter reds and whites with some subtle complexity make good pairings.
Where can you buy grouse to cook in France?
During hunting season, fresh grouse can often be purchased directly from hunters, butcher shops, open-air markets, and specialty game dealers in France. However, options are more limited outside of hunting season. Ways to buy grouse include:
- Frozen grouse imported from other European countries.
- Vacuum-sealed grouse pâté and terrines.
- Canned grouse meat.
- Dried grouse meat.
These allow enjoying grouse year-round. But the flavor and texture are considered best when cooked fresh in-season. Some French chefs may freeze portions of fresh grouse to use later in creative dishes.
Are there any grouse farms in France?
There are a small number of grouse farms (or élevages de tétras) in France. However, they are relatively rare compared to farms for other game birds like pheasant and partridge. Some of the few existing grouse farms include:
- Le Tétras Doré – Small farm raising black grouse in the Rhône-Alpes region.
- Les Tétras de Chambord – Farm raising grouse near the Chambord estate in Loir-et-Cher.
- Val de Cère – Capercaillie breeding center in Cantal working to reintroduce the species.
These facilities raise grouse in captivity for release into the wild, conservation purposes, or to sell to restaurants and specialty stores. However, most French grouse still comes from wild hunting.
Why is grouse hunting controversial in France?
Grouse hunting has come under scrutiny in France for a few reasons:
- Declining populations – Habitat loss has caused grouse numbers to fall over the last century.
- Lead ammunition – Lead shot and bullets are toxic to wildlife when ingested.
- Ethics – Some view recreational hunting as unethical and cruel.
- Disturbance – Hunting may disrupt grouse during vulnerable seasons like breeding.
In response, conservation measures have been enacted. These include shorter seasons, bag limits, and required use of non-lead ammo in sensitive wetlands. But many argue more restrictions or an outright ban are needed to protect declining grouse species.
What are some classic grouse recipes in French cuisine?
Here are a few classic and traditional ways grouse is prepared in French cuisine:
Salmis de Tétras (Grouse Salmi)
- Grouse roasted then chopped up and slowly simmered in a red wine sauce with shallots, mushrooms, and herbs.
Tétras Rôti aux Morilles (Roasted Grouse with Morels)
- Whole roasted grouse served with a creamy morel mushroom sauce.
Terrine de Tétras (Grouse Terrine)
- A smooth pâté of grouse meat cooked in stock and brandy, baked in a terrine mold.
Tétras à la Provençale (Grouse with Tomatoes, Olives, and Herbs)
- Pan-roasted grouse served with a Provençal-style tomato, olive and garlic sauce.
Tétras aux Girolles (Grouse with Chanterelle Mushrooms)
- Grouse breasts pan-seared and served atop a creamy chanterelle mushroom sauce.
The flavor of grouse is very versatile and adapts well to many flavors and ingredients – from herbs to wine to mushrooms and beyond. It has been a culinary tradition in France for centuries.
Conclusion
Grouse have been an important game bird in French cuisine for generations. While overhunting caused populations to decline, conservation efforts have helped stabilize numbers of species like the black grouse, capercaillie, and hazel grouse. When cooked properly and paired with complementary flavors like Pinot Noir and mushrooms, grouse can be a delicate and unforgettable meal. Its rich history and tradition in French hunting culture and gastronomy continues today.