Berwick upon Tweed is a historic town in northern England located near the Scottish border. With a population of around 13,000, it’s a small but vibrant community with a rich history and picturesque riverside setting. If you’re considering moving to Berwick upon Tweed, here’s an overview of what it’s like to live there.
Location
Berwick upon Tweed sits on the north bank of the River Tweed in Northumberland, England. It’s located about 100km north of Newcastle and 95km south of Edinburgh, making it a convenient driving distance from both major cities. The nearest large towns are Alnwick (32km south) and Kelso (38km north) across the Scottish border.
The town has a strategic position on the English-Scottish border. In fact, it has changed hands between England and Scotland several times throughout history and was considered a separate county in its own right until 1885. Today it’s firmly part of England but retains deep Scottish roots and influences.
History and Culture
With origins dating back to the medieval period, Berwick has a long and turbulent history. The original town was founded in the 12th century under King David I of Scotland. It was a center of the wool trade and busy fishing port during its early years. After changing hands between England and Scotland, it was finally recaptured by England in 1482 and fortified with impressive Elizabethan ramparts and bastions.
Some key historical events in Berwick include:
- 1296 – Captured by Edward I of England during the Wars of Independence with Scotland
- 1318 – Recaptured by Robert the Bruce
- 1482 – Finally taken by the English after changing hands 13 times
- 1554 – Withstood an 11-week siege by the Scots
- 1639 – Occupied by the Scots during the Bishops Wars
This turbulent past has left Berwick with a unique blend of English and Scottish architecture, culture and traditions. Walking around the town you’ll find buildings in the distinct Scottish Baronial style, as well as English Tudor and Georgian architecture.
The Berwick dialect retains some unique vocabulary borrowed from Lowland Scots. Locals speak of going “doon the toon” (down the town) and “stellies” (starlings). The traditions of riding the marches and flying the town flag also stem from Berwick’s contested past.
Landmarks and Attractions
Despite its small size, Berwick has an impressive selection of historic landmarks and attractions to explore:
- Berwick Town Walls – Over 3km of unbroken Elizabethan walls encircle the town, complete with bastions, towers and artillery mounts. You can walk the walls for panoramic views.
- Berwick Castle – The imposing remains of Berwick’s Norman castle, including the iconic White Walls.
- Berwick Barracks – Dating from 1717, these are Britain’s earliest purpose-built barracks and now house museums and art galleries.
- Berwick Bridge – A 15-span sandstone bridge crossing the Tweed, dating from 1611.
- Cell Block Museum – Displays the graffiti of American Civil War prisoners held in Berwick.
- Maltings Theatre – A contemporary theatre and cinema housed in a converted Victorian brewery.
- Parade Grounds – Fields outside the walls, used for military drills and parades since the 17th century.
The historic town centre is filled with cobbled lanes, independent boutiques, restaurants and riverside pubs to explore. Key events in the calendar include the Seaside Festival in August and the Berwick Film and Media Arts Festival each September.
Living Costs
The cost of living in Berwick upon Tweed is relatively low compared to the national average. Here are some typical costs:
| Expense | Estimated Cost |
|---|---|
| One bedroom apartment monthly rent | £500 |
| Three bedroom house monthly rent | £650 |
| Loaf of bread | £1.20 |
| Dozen eggs | £1.20 |
| Public transport day pass | £3.50 |
| Monthly broadband internet | £30 |
As you can see, basics like grocery shopping and rent are very affordable in Berwick. Things like eating out and entertainment are also lower cost compared to bigger towns and cities across the UK.
Housing
There are diverse housing options available in Berwick, including:
- Georgian and Victorian townhouses – Classic historic homes in the town center.
- Flats – Apartments for rent and to buy, many along the river.
- New build estates – Modern housing developments on the outskirts.
- Farm cottages – Charming rural homes in the Northumberland countryside.
Both owning and renting are affordable, especially compared to southern England. Expect to pay around £650-800 per month to rent a nice 2-3 bedroom house. Buying a home will cost in the region of £150,000-£220,000 depending on size and location.
Jobs and Economy
Traditionally fishing and manufacturing drove Berwick’s economy. Today the town relies more on small businesses, retail, healthcare and tourism for employment. Notable local employers include:
- Berwick Infirmary – Provides 650 healthcare jobs.
- High school and primary schools.
- Local small businesses on Castlegate and Marygate.
- Hotels and accommodation providers.
- Retail chains like Sainsbury’s, Aldi and Home Bargains.
Unemployment sits around 5%, on par with the national average. The most common industries are healthcare, retail, education, construction and hospitality services.
New businesses are encouraged by the low cost of premises and start-up incentives from Northumberland County Council. Berwick is also building a reputation as a hub for digital startups, creative agencies and freelancers.
Weather and Climate
Berwick enjoys a temperate oceanic climate, characterized by cool summers and mild winters. Its coastal position means temperatures are regulated by the North Sea.
Here’s an overview of typical temperatures and rainfall:
- Winter lows: 2 °C (36 °F)
- Summer highs: 19 °C (66 °F)
- Rainy days per year: 150
- Annual sunshine hours: 1400
The weather is very changeable, although severe weather is rare. Winters are cool with occasional frost and snowfall. Summers fluctuate between cooler rainy periods and warmer dry spells. Overall, Berwick’s climate is mild and precipitation is spread fairly evenly over the year.
Transport
Berwick is reasonably well connected by road, rail and bus services:
- Train – On the East Coast Main Line with direct services to Edinburgh (1 hr) and London Kings Cross (4 hrs).
- Road – Located near the A1 for easy access to Newcastle and Edinburgh by car.
- Bus – Local bus services run within Berwick and to other Northumberland towns.
- Air – Newcastle Airport is 50 mins drive away.
Within town, you can walk most places easily. Berwick is very compact and flat. For regional trips, having a car would be beneficial but public transport is workable.
Education
Berwick has a number of good primary schools, including Holy Trinity CofE First, Tweedmouth Prior Park and Spittal First. At secondary level, Berwick Academy has an outstanding rating from Ofsted and excellent GCSE/A-Level results.
The nearest further education colleges are in Newcastle, Northumberland and Edinburgh. However, Berwick is working to improve higher education access locally through initiatives like the new Berwick Learning Centre.
Food and Drink
Being so close to Scotland, Berwick has access to fantastic fresh seafood. Look out for salmon, trout, lobster and shellfish on local menus. The surrounding farmland also provides top quality meats, cheeses and produce.
Popular spots to enjoy local flavours include:
- The Curfew Micro Pub
- Barrels Alehouse
- Audela Restaurant
- The Garden Coffee House
Berwick has a small but vibrant food scene driven by independent eateries. You’ll find all the usual takeaways and restaurants chains too. The weekly farmers markets are a great place to sample local specialties and artisan goods.
Shopping
Despite having a population of only 13,000, Berwick is well served for shopping options including:
- Castlegate and Marygate – Pedestrianized zones with local independent shops.
- High Street – Mixed independent and high street chain stores.
- Hill Street – A row of exclusive designer boutiques.
- Loft Gallery – Sells artwork and crafts from local artists.
- Berwick Market – Weekly market selling farm produce, street food and crafts.
Grocery shopping is convenient with all the major supermarkets present. Residents can find pretty much everything they need for day-to-day living without leaving town.
Leisure and Entertainment
Despite its small size, Berwick still offers plenty to see and do during your downtime:
- Parks – Quality green spaces like Castlegate Park and Coronation Park.
- Lowry Trail – Walking trail following L.S. Lowry’s paintings of Berwick.
- River Tweed – Picturesque river for walking, cycling and water sports.
- Golf – Several high quality courses including Goswick Links.
- Festivals – Live music and events like the Berwick Film Festival.
- Maltings Theatre – Plays, musicals, comedy and concerts.
- Gyms – Council run gyms and private options like Club Beyond.
The nearby Northumberland Coast is also easily accessible for days out. It’s very scenic with unspoilt sandy beaches ideal for swimming, surfing and walking.
Healthcare
Berwick Infirmary provides a 24-hour A&E department, maternity services and outpatient care for residents. For more complex treatments, the nearest large hospitals are around 50 minutes drive in Newcastle.
The town is served by a few GP surgeries like the Church Street Surgery and Castlegate & Marygate Surgery. There are also private dentists and opticians practices.
Specialist services like physiotherapy are available from both the NHS and private providers. Overall, Berwick has reasonably good access to healthcare despite its remote location.
Property Prices
Berwick property prices are very affordable compared to the UK average. According to Rightmove, in January 2023 average property prices were:
- 1 bed flat – £105,000
- 2 bed terrace house – £130,000
- 3 bed semi-detached house – £165,000
- 4 bed detached house – £260,000
This buys a significant amount of space and amenities compared to property in England’s southern region. Rental yields are also attractive for investors at over 5% on average.
Crime Rate
Berwick is generally a very safe town with low crime levels. According to police statistics, in December 2020 there were:
- 5.7 burglaries per 1,000 residents
- 14.8 vehicle crimes per 1,000 residents
- 1.9 violent crimes per 1,000 residents
These figures are all well below the UK averages. Violent crime in particular is rare. Most incidents are petty thefts from vehicles and shoplifting. Overall, residents report feeling safe walking alone even late at night.
Community
Berwick has a close-knit community feel, where people take pride in the local area and support each other. Newcomers are welcomed and quickly integrated.
There is a thriving arts scene focused on the Maltings Theatre. Annual highlights like the Seaside Festival, Food Festival and Film Festival also bring people together.
For a small town, Berwick boasts a diverse choice of sports and social clubs including football, cricket, bowls, hockey, tennis, rugby and more. So there are ample opportunities for meeting people and finding hobbies.
Conclusion
Berwick upon Tweed has a lot to offer as a historic English town near the Scottish border. Residents enjoy an excellent quality of life with convenience and affordability. The picturesque riverside setting, wealth of amenities and close-knit community make it a special place to live.
Some downsides are the remote location, limited job market and shortage of higher education options. But overall, Berwick manages to balance history with modern livability in a beautiful and safe environment. For both families and retirees, it’s a North England gem that often flies under the radar.
